It works mainly against fungi and has only milder effect against bacteria. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Micro Day Riche | Revitalizing and Tightening Day Cream ... Every month we offer exclusive savings on Neocutis products to … Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate and cheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. Neocutis Lumiere Bio Restorative Eye Cream with PSP is an intensive line smoothing eye cream that revitalizes and rejuvenates the delicate eye area. With this context in mind let's see what ATIP might be able to do. As is the case with most skin-care lines, it has its standouts. :( What, why?! Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid helps plump up the appearance of skin. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). NeoCutis delivers innovative skincare solutions that address key skincare concerns, including the signs of aging, discoloration, oxidative stress, skin redness and dryness. It also helps to keep products stay nice longer by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (they usually come from water). EYES® Rejuvenating Cream from Neocutis is designed with a deeply nourishing formula that wakes up fatigued eyes and reduces the appearance of past damage. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. This seems like a skincare solution which might be able to enhance the area under your eyes in a rather beneficial manner without exposing it to any side effects. NeoCutis Micro Eyes By Lumiere - Tightening Cream. Tightening eye cream reduces the appearance of dark circles under the eye, Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP;Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. Chemically speaking, it is an unsaturated (has double bonds) hydrocarbon (contains only carbon and hydrogen) molecule, that can undergo oxidation. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. Even though we are massive vitamin C fans, Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is our least favorite. A real oldie but a goodie. It's a popular duo. Neocutis. Yes, it’s soap. Dr. Julie Woodward demonstrates the best way to apply eye-cream. Not bad! Pretty much the current IT-preservative. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. A white to beige powder that is the golden standard emulsifier for emulsions (oil+water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize. Before developing any products, Neocutis first aims to have a deep understanding of how skin works and the root causes behind concerns such as aging, pigmentation, redness, dehydration and textural skin changes. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. Neocutis Lumiere is formulated with 30% more PSP, the most complete protein blend of Growth Factors, Cytokines and Interleukins available to smooth and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Rejuvenating Cream Multi-tasking eye cream powered by MPCTM is formulated with hydrating Hyaluronic Acid and caffeine to help improve the signs of skin aging in the delicate eye area. (Btw, if you do not know what the big deal with vitamin C is then you are missing out. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. It's one of the active parts of Chamomile that contains about 30% of bisabolol. It's also often used to create liposomes. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. A well-known thing about Caffeine is that it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it might even be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. A mild, natural preservative that usually comes to the formula together with its other mild preservative friends, such as Benzoic Acid and/or Dehydroacetic Acid. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. It is especially popular in sunscreens as it can boost SPF protection and increase the water-resistance of the formula. Refreshes the delicate eye area with bisabolol, a component of chamomile extract, so eyes appear younger and smoother with regular use. I have always used Neocutis eye cream for many years. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Apart from the general controversy around parabens (we wrote about it more here), there is a 2006 in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) research about methylparaben (MP) showing that when exposed to sunlight, MP treated skin cells suffered more harm than non-MP treated skin cells. If contact with eyes occurs, rinse eyes thoroughly with water. Olive (0.6%), peanut (0.1%) and pumpkin (0.35%) oils contain it, though not in huge amounts. “I love Aftercare. A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. Neocutis Micro Eyes by Lumiere | Best Eye Cream | LovelySkin According to its manufacturer, Tetrapeptide-21 shows superior collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin (all nice and important skin elements) boosting activity, and can smooth and minimize all kinds of wrinkles. Looking at the research, we were surprised to find how versatile Caffeine is. About 13% of human sebum is squalene, which means that it’s an important skin-identical ingredient and NMF (natural moisturizing factor). Apart from the general controversy around parabens (we wrote about it more here), there is a 2006 in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) research about methylparaben (MP) sho. The most common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason parabens. A very common type of feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. Ultra-hydrating cream formulated specifically for the delicate eye area to help restore a more youthful, vibrant appearance around the eyes. Squalene is an oily liquid that originally comes from shark liver but luckily it can also be found in a couple of plant oils. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. It has nice antioxidant properties and can improve the microcirculation. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5% Minoxidil (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approved Minoxidil stuff. Neocutis Eye Care online at Stylight: 7 items Bestseller 2021 All Neocutis Eye Care from 2 shops Sale: at USD $97.00+ » Shop now! This ingredient name is not according to the INCI-standard. EYES® Rejuvenating Cream from NeoCutis is designed with a deeply nourishing formula that wakes up fatigued eyes and reduces the appearance of past damage. One of the active parts of Chamomile that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. Btw, it's also used as a food preservative. Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, here is a bit longer and nicer explanation, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, take a look at more promising derivatives here, Read all the geeky details about Ascorbic Acid here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive, Works best between a concentration of 5-20%, Boosts the skin’s own collagen production, If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection, Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air, Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations, Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection, Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C, Potent Vit. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. Olive (0.6%), peanut (0.1%) and pumpkin (0.35%) oils contain it, though not in huge amounts. Daily use of MICRO∙EYES helps provide the following benefits: Minimizes the signs of aging specifically around the unique eye area such as crows feet, hollowness and crepiness. Also available in an intensive moisturizing Riche formulation